We walked down the mountain in the pitch dark again this morning. We paddled out and found some amazing waves. When we first started surfing together in the dark 5 years ago, this girl couldn’t see a thing. Now she goes by feeling and is so connected to nature. This is an amazing moment! 
Today’s sunrise was the clearest of the year. I could see deer eyes on Molokai. Haha. Just joking. But it was as clear as can be.
Now I have to watch out when I ride behind this girl. She will cutback right into me very soon. Scary. 
As for this girl, I stay as far away as possible. Her cutbacks are better than Kelly Slaters. Haha. 
Only a few days out of the year Diamond Head will get like this. The ocean surface is like oil. And when the waves come, it’s a dream come true. 
I can’t believe how good it’s been out here. This is now my favorite surf spot. 
Then it was Kato-san’s turn to go surfing this afternoon. The wind was wild so everybody came in. Not us. This girl surfed so good! 
Only a surfer knows the feeling…
