My Disneyland

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Today will be the last glassy day in a while.  South/West winds coming tomorrow afternoon, and strong cold North winds to follow.  Everyone’s going to miss these conditions.   

The waves at Diamond Head tend to be slow and weak when the conditions are clean like this.  Perfect for long boarding as you can practically ride each wave all the way to the beach.  

The girls figured out how to ride their shortboards good enough to ride it to the beach too.  Pretty fun watching them riding so many epic waves.  

Yes, we are getting there!  That’s got to feel good.

These boards were custom made to transit you from a longboard to a shortboard.  A very fast and smooth transition.  

This is the goal.  A fast, smooth, and stylish cutback.  This girl can do 10 of these cutbacks on one wave.   Very impressive.

It’s cool that just 10 minutes away from my house is right here.  The most beautiful ocean playground in the world.  This has been my Disneyland.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide