Almost Barreled

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It was weird this morning.  We planned to surf at Diamond Head but when we checked it, it was very small.  So we went to Bowls and for some reason, the waves were a lot bigger, and a lot cleaner.  Paddling out watching Kyle on a perfect set.

I predict that within the next next year, this girl will get barreled.  It may be on purpose, or it may be by mistake.  Today I was following her and she almost got barreled by mistake.  Haha.

But for now, we’ll keep on practicing and practicing until the barrel comes.  

A very busy and crowded Sunday morning at the office.  I don’t mind it at all.  

I was watching Seth’s heats at Sunset Beach.  After the Pipeline contest, I was heartbroken.  Now my heart healed a little because Seth is heading to Finals Day!  His surfing has always been good, but the ocean hasn’t been cooperating.  Today, all that changed!  He was connected and when he needed a wave, it came.  Finally!  

Watching Seth win against World Champion Gabriel Medina was cool.  But watching him win his next heat to advance to the quarter finals was cooler.  I was sitting in my car in the parking lot watching on my phone.  Seth was losing but in the final minute, he caught a wave and won!  I was screaming, yelling, punching my steering wheel, and almost breaking my drivers door glass.  I let out so much stress that the security guard started walking over to my car.  I started up the engine, picked up my student, and went surfing.  It was an amazing day!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide