Sandman is Back

92

The waves were super fun this morning.  Chest high and very challenging, but when you rode one, it was amazing.  

Boot Camp continues as there is no rest time when walking up the cliff.  Deep breaths, no breaks, and keep on moving.  

Came home for lunch.  I cut up the fish we caught, made some sashimi, and put some thin sliced over my hot chazuke.  It was so good that I forgot when and how I fell asleep.  

Got back up and headed back to the beach.  The waves were even better!  Bigger and longer.  

And very warm too.  The warmest it’s been in a very long time.  

We scored 2 great surf sessions.  Lots of rides, gained experience, and most of all, had fun!  

Just after a couple days, all the sand is back on the beach.  That’s so weird?  How did it come back so fast?

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide