Rest of My Life

99

Now that the strong trade winds are back, we can reminisce about the days where there were no winds.  Even the birds were happy.

There are only a few days of the year you will see Diamond Head looking like this.  And when it’s like this, there is no where else I’d rather be.

The sunrises are spectacular.  All I think about is how lucky we are to be living in this beautiful world.  

Every spot has its locals.  Mark has been surfing Diamond Head since the early 1970’s so nobody is more local than him.  I love listening to his stories how surfing use to be.  Super cool guy and surfs that place like an expert.  I watch and learn.  

I see guys older than me surfing and all it does is inspire.  I want to surf for the rest of my life too!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide