Right Board Selection

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Full moon surf this morning.  It was so bright!

We’ve been working on board selection.  Each board is custom made for different conditions.  So choosing the right board for the right day is very important.

This morning she chose the 6’2 because the waves were smooth, clean, and pretty easy.  Right choice.

Round 2 was at Diamond Head.  Much bigger and a lot more wild.  So she chose the 6’4 which makes it easier to catch waves, and also much more stable.   Right choice.

This was her best performance at Diamond Head.  Paddled out to the right place, caught a lot of waves, and rode them perfectly.  One of my friends asked me how this girl got good so fast.  I told him “lots of practice in different types of waves with different types of surfboards.  And also, making the right choice.”

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide