Wax on, Wax off…

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Remember when I told you that this girl will get barreled someday?  Well, her surfing is getting much better so it’s just a matter of time.  This morning at Bowls, the waves were perfect!  The swell direction was finally normal again so the lefts were barreling.  On this wave, I was yelling “go, go, go!!!”  I thought this could be the chance of her getting barreled.  Everything was lookin great!

Then she got barreled!!!!  Well, not barreled like she would have wanted to, but she’s still in the barrel.  Haha.  Next time I hope she’s standing on her feet when the barrel goes over her like this.  We’re getting there girl!

There have been so many turtles recently.  They will just swim right up to you.

Round 2 was at Diamond Head.  Very wild, very challenging, and very humbling.  The girls won’t give up until they master this spot.  That takes time so that’s why we’re there practicing almost everyday.

Back to the Pipeline Pro.  Just making sure Seth’s boards were waxed up properly.  I get nervous doing this.

 

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide