35 Years of Sunrises

96

Another early morning start for Round 1.  Getting ready in the dark and paddling out as the sun rises is absolutely the best feeling.  

I’ve been watching sunrises and sunsets for the past 35 years of my life.  And it only gets better.  

We’ve been surfing so much that this girl is advancing pretty fast.  Now she’s riding a 6’1 easily.  She tried it last time she was here and could barely paddle it.  Now she’s taking off on her own and doing cutbacks on it.  So cool!  

Calm and focused.  A couple weeks on this board and then she’s going to ride even a shorter shortboard.  She’s feeling alive!    

The clouds this morning looked pretty cool.  

Round 2 Boot Camp at Diamond Head.  The girls did excellent out there today.  They knew where to get the best waves, and they rode it perfectly.  They both caught about 30 waves total.  Success!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide