I basically quit surfing for 3 years when I started to foil. That turned to to be a very good break for me because now, I have the surf fever again. Since the last 43 plus years, surfing has now brought me the highest levels of joy. All I think about is “surf, surf, surf!” And “barrels, barrels, barrels!” 
The morning crowd and afternoon crowd is totally different. Different vibe, different personalities, and different experiences. When I first paddled out in the afternoon, a surfer in his 60’s paddled by me and said “get out of my way!” I’m positive he thought that I was a Japanese tourist. I won’t say what I told him but it wasn’t nice. 
After a super good morning surf, I asked this girl “do you want to surf again in the afternoon?” She looked at me and said “yes I do.” So yes we did.
She has 5 of her own magic surfboards to choose from. She surely chose the right one for this session. So easy!
