We drove all around the East side this morning looking for waves to surf. We wanted to try something different and more exciting. There is a very dangerous spot that nobody surfs so we decided to give it a try. There is nobody around, there are no lifeguards, the waves smash against the rocks, and if you slip, you will get crushed. All that rock climbing at Ala Moana was practice for the real thing. Today was the real thing. 
Timing is everything. I told this girl that I wasn’t going to say when to jump. She had to decide on her own. Yes, I’m more nervous than her because if something happens, I have to jump in after her. I didn’t want to ding my board. Haha. 
She jumped in a little too early. I was thinking to myself “OMG!” Luckily the wave didn’t push her back into the rocks. Maybe next time I will tell her when to jump. 
It was so wild but she managed to get a wave on her own. Then her leash came off and her board was heading straight for the rocks. I grabbed it right in time. Then I said “we’re going in right now.” That was enough excitement for me. And must have been 10x more for her. These are the days the ocean will humble you. Just glad nobody got hurt…
