March Coldness

106

This March has to be the coldest March ever!  It’s been pretty cold and dark.  You can hear everybody saying “it’s freezing!”

The waves were good!  Clean conditions and long rides.

And perfect bottom turns.

Watching this girl getting better and better everyday.

And watching her getting better doing the rockdance.  In a couple weeks, she’ll be able to run on the rocks.

It’s very intimidating trying to climb up slippery rocks with waves breaking.  You have to time it right, focus, and not fall.

And not stop on sea urchins because there are many of them wanting to poke your feet.

Round 2 we went searching for something different.  I haven’t been here in 35 years.  The waves were super fun and it was only the 2 of us out there.  We scored!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide