Whales and Ferraris

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Had an amazing morning surfing with Uchiyama-san.  Her first time to Hawaii and her first time riding so many long waves.  Nice rides, nice cutbacks, and nice smile.  

She came to Hawaii at the perfect time because the waves were good and the sky was blue again!  Lucky girl.

This girls surfboard is getting shorter and shorter.  Now she can push it harder and make it go faster.

Just like this!  The red Ferrari going full throttle!  

Came home to see my brother fixing another car.  I still don’t understand how he can take this apart and put it all back together again.  I would be scared to see my car looking like that.  Haha.  

Round 2 guess where?  Yes, we all knew that Diamond Head would be perfect with these light winds.  

The girls walking on the reef like they’re walking at a shopping mall.  Strong feet and strong minds.

I was watching about 8 whales swimming by so peacefully.  

It suddenly got very crowded.  The girls hunted a few more waves and came in.  One year ago they didn’t know how to surf here.  But now, they can go out by themselves and catch a lot of good waves even when it’s crowded. They know how to hunt.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide