I thought Diamond Head was going to be good this morning so we went there. It was still dark but it didn’t seem right. So we got back in the car and headed to Bowls. It was absolutely perfect. The best swell direction making the rights and lefts really good. 
Today was this girls best performance until now. She’s mastered her bottom turn and is completing her rides. 
I get a good energy from Malcom. He’s always very positive and always smiling. And when he takes off on a wave, that smile turns into laughter. This is the only guy I know that laughs from start to finish. 
You can’t be more stoked than this. If everybody enjoyed surfing like this, the ocean would be a much better place. 
Went back out for Round 2 at Bowls. 
Good to surf with Ozaki-san again! Really energetic as she rode each wave all the way until the rock wall. 
We surfed until the sunset. Breezy North winds making it chilly. A long day with excellent surfing. See you tomorrow. Goodnight.
