Score and Scored

93

The waves at Bowls this morning were super good.  Bigger and better than yesterday.  The girls paddled out in the dark and caught so many waves before the sun even rose.  Their wave knowledge is getting really good.  They chose all the right waves today.

Warm weather, trade winds, and perfect waves.  It feels just like summer.

After we came in from an amazing session, we all agreed on one thing.  We scored!

Round 2 was a gamble.  We paddled out to a spot just for the experience.  It was onshore, small, and junky.  Then all of a sudden, the winds turned offshore, it got super clean, and the sets started pumping in.

This is the best right hander on the South Shore.  I got my first summer barrel of the year so it was a bonus.  When we got back in to the beach, all I heard was “omg, we scored!”  Yes we did!  Hope this South swell continues tomorrow…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide