Laughing all the way home…

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Paddled out again in the dark.  Looking left and watching the sun start to peak over Diamond Head.  

Gary was the first guy out.  I saw him flying down the line on this nice wave.  I was trying to get out of his way because I’m sure he couldn’t see me.

Nice turn and he sprayed me in the face!

Then next was Eddie coming in for the barrel ride.  I tried to get out of his way but still almost got ran over.  It’s pretty dark and none of us have headlights.  That was a little dangerous.

Then the sun rises and guess who came paddling out?  Yes, Malcom with his hair dry as he paddles for this beauty.  

Look good and you can see him laughing.  You can see, but I can see and hear.  It’s pretty funny.  Haha.  

Nobody gets better waves than Malcom.  He comes out, catches the best waves, then goes in probably laughing all the way home.  

Locals only today.  No visitors out today and if you were,  you probably didn’t catch a wave because Malcom caught them all.  Haha.  

This girl is becoming like a shark.  She’s paddling around hunting for waves.  Good waves like this.  

We came in early and was pretty content.  Little did the girls know what was coming in the afternoon.

Round 2 at my favorite surf spot in the world.  The girls caught some big sets and rode them perfectly.  This was the most perfect wave both of them surfed and it was almost too easy for them.  We were laughing all the way home, just like Malcom.  Goodnight.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide