Low Batteries

83

I couldn’t believe it when we arrived at Bowls this morning.  There was nobody there!  Happy!  

These are the mornings I love the most.  Nobody knows there were waves so there was nobody out.  The 2 girls had it to themselves when we first paddled out.

Today was the cleanest conditions we had in a while.  The ocean surface was like oil.  So fun and easy to surf.

By 8am, we were done.  Fully content and happy that the full day was still ahead.  

So we went to Diamond Head for Round 2.  Not as clean as Bowls, but very good for Boot Camp.  

I don’t know where this girl gets all her energy from.  All she wants to do is surf, surf, and surf.  So we’ve been surfing, surfing, and surfing every single day for the past few months.  I’m not sure when her batteries will run out but mine are on low.  Haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide