Children Playground

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I was talking to the Rockpiles locals this morning.  A cool group of local surfers that surf there everyday of the year.  

But today, the locals took a break so I sent the 2 girls out by themselves.  I wanted to see if they could surf there by theirselves and guess what?  They did great!  

I was watching them ride so many good waves.  It’s a difficult spot to figure out because the current and very shallow reef.  These girls can surf anywhere.

They had it to themselves all morning and when I paddled out, I felt like an intruder.  Haha.  Good job girls!

Round 2 was Boot Camp at Diamond Head.  The water has been so clean recently.  I could see all the reef, turtles, and a lot of whales.  

This is where I sit while taking video of the girls.  Hundred flies on my body each day but it’s worth it.  I’m commentating in the video clips laughing a lot.  When the girls go home and watch the clips, I’m sure they’re laughing too.  It’s like watching 2 little kids playing in a playground as a teacher constantly scolds them.  Haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide