We paddled out extra early this morning and it was beautiful as usual. Can’t see a thing, but can feel a lot.
Using the moonlight and finding the right waves to ride.
So happy to see Seigo-san from Marutaya back in Hawaii. This guy makes the best ramen in the world! And he surfs really good too.
When Seigo-san and I paddled out, the girls were already out surfing in the pitch dark by themselves. All you could hear was their laughing.
Having a spot like Rockpiles to yourselves is special. It doesn’t happen often so when it does, you better make the most out of it.
Then we paddled down to Bowls and Seigo-san caught the wave of the day. A perfect right that kept on going and going.
Coming from Japan, this must be a lovely view.
