Stick it UP!

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The waves have been really small so far this summer.  But it’s still really fun when you have the right board for the right wave.  I’ve been experimenting with a lot of boards recently and they all seem to be working good in the small surf.    

Putting a big and thick board up on a waist high wave is what Ben Aipa taught me.  The trick is to time the take off so you can get a good bottom turn use your knees to spring to the top of the wave.  Till this day, when ever I take off, I can still hear Ben saying “stick it up!”  

When you have over 10 magic boards, it’s really hard to choose the one to take on a trip with you.  I would like to take them all, but for this upcoming trip, I’m only taking one.  I already changed my mind 4 times and I still don’t know which one to take.  I’m so confused…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide