The waves have been really small so far this summer. But it’s still really fun when you have the right board for the right wave. I’ve been experimenting with a lot of boards recently and they all seem to be working good in the small surf.
Putting a big and thick board up on a waist high wave is what Ben Aipa taught me. The trick is to time the take off so you can get a good bottom turn use your knees to spring to the top of the wave. Till this day, when ever I take off, I can still hear Ben saying “stick it up!”
When you have over 10 magic boards, it’s really hard to choose the one to take on a trip with you. I would like to take them all, but for this upcoming trip, I’m only taking one. I already changed my mind 4 times and I still don’t know which one to take. I’m so confused…