Oki Oki

70

Spent a week in Okinawa and just kind of went with the flow.  Heard there were some waves so we went to Hayato’s house to borrow some equipment.  

Loaded up the car and headed off for the long beautiful drive to the white sandy beaches and crystal blue water.

Paddling out, we had no idea how big the waves were.  We saw just one surfer out and the waves were pretty big and powerful.

The waves were thicker than the height.  So much energy rolling in from the deep water hitting the shallow reef.  The takeoffs were very steep.

And the water couldn’t have been any clear.  You didn’t need a mask to see underwater.  

That one surfer out was Nakahodo-san.  I was so happy to see him charging all by himself.  There’s no way I would have gone out there alone.  NO way!  Thank you Nakahodo-san for sharing your wave and showing us how to surf it.  See you back in Hawaii soon!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide