good morning. tiny waves around the island. today is a relax day and relax is what i’m going to do. hope you have a relax day too… by the way, it’s super bowl sunday. the biggest sports day of the year for americans. so if your smart, go surf about 2-4pm and you’ll have the ocean to yourself. everybody else will be glued to the tv….
matchi’s been coming to hawaii for over 15 north shore seasons now. surfed every spot on this island. got bigger barrels than most surfers get in their lives, and also had a near death experience. machi’s been there, and done that. experience is the key to surviving season after season in hawaii and experience is what matchi has…
i’ve never seen more of an old original mustang than jeannie chessers. i asked her if she wanted to sell it to me and the look she gave me was terrifying… i’m glad she didn’t slap my face for asking that stupid question…..
renee vento was on our timor trip last september. she pulled up to the secret spot to surf and after seeing how big it was, she turned back to the boat grab her camera. i’m glad she did because she took some pretty awesome photos. this is me taking off. after this, i was in the barrel for a while thinking to myself how lucky i am. it was kyle, al, and myself that morning exchanging dream barrels. i’ll never forget that session….
