My #1 Priority

19

It was so good to stop by the Dove Factory in Shonan.  When I use to live in Fujisawa, I use to go here every day.  Tokura-san would take me to lunch, I would order wetsuits, and just hang out there all day.  BUT when Tokura-san got the call for the surf report, we would drop everything we’re doing and go surfing.  32 years later, I still drop everything when the waves are good and go surfing.  I’m sure he still does too.  So yes, that’s when surfing became my #1 priority in life.  And it will be forever.

Tokura-san’s also been so kind all these years to let me use what ever car he has at the time.  Without a car in Japan, you will be very limited.  This van gave us the freedom to roam.

The first 2 days of snowboarding was pretty dangerous.   It was so foggy that you could barely see a few feet in front of you.  Going to the highest peak of the mountain and just dropping into the unknown was a little freaky for me.  My brother and I were using all rental gear and wear so I had no idea what to expect.  I planned to go slow but when I saw my brother just go straight down the mountain as fast as he could, I had to follow.  I thought I wasn’t competitive anymore but I guess I was wrong.  Haha.

Coming from the ocean everyday of my life, the time in the mountains is very refreshing.  The air is clean, the snow is beautiful, and nothing beats speeding down an empty mountain with your brother by your side.  Thank you Tokura-san for always sharing your secret spots with me.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide