Sitting in my car watching the waves at 5:30am. I see my nephew Isaiah running on the rocks with his red surfboard. That makes me pretty happy.
The swell is slowly growing and the conditions were perfect. Today finally felt like summer because it was very warm, very sunny, and very happy. I arrived at 5:30am and left at 11am. Left with a sunburnt smile.
Surfing with a smile means you’re calm and having fun. Try it.
This is the lowest the tide will ever get. It was a -0.4 this morning which is very low.
Sitting on your surfboard and waiting for a wave, you don’t realize how shallow it is. Be careful of the sea urchin. It will poke you when you least expect it.
I think the waves will grow slowly tomorrow with perfect conditions. Then 2 more South swells right behind this one. These next 2 weeks will be GREAT!
