Still Searching for the Perfect Wave

105

Spent last night with the family.  It was my Mom’s birthday so the whole family was there.  My Mom had 4 of us kids and here are her grandchildren.  Add in her great grandchildren and that’s a huge family tree.  Mom, Micah, Kelia, Temari, Isaiah, Joshua, Seth, and Mia.  Happy Birthday Mom!

The first south swell of the year is finally here!  Bowls was good all day long.

It was way overhead at Ala Moana and pretty perfect.  All the locals out including Isaiah, Joshua, and Seth this morning.  

There must have been over 40-50 aggressive surfers out in the morning.  Everybody trying to get their fair share.  The first swell of the year is always like this where ever you go.  

For decades, Dove Wetsuit’s motto is “Always Searching for the Perfect Wave.”  That’s what we did this afternoon.  Tokura-san taught me everything about exploring so that’s why I love to explore.  And we know the best way to do that is by boat.  FREEDOM!

And guess what?  After driving around to the other side of the island, we found the perfect wave!  Nobody out, only accessible by boat, and a surfers dream.  We’ve been on many boat trips in our lives and these are the ones you never forget.  One of the best surf sessions I’ve had in a very long time.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide