Another great day of surfing. Paddled out to Bowls and scored some really good waves. It was crowded but crowds don’t bother me anymore. I’m just so grateful to be in the ocean.
After I came in, I watched it for a while. Lance Hookano of course getting the good ones. The sets were much bigger than this but these are the ones we all look for. You can do 7 turns on one of these waves.
I always tell people to stay out of Lance’s way. If you are, he will run you over, even if you’re his friend.
So good to see the older guys still surfing and ripping like this. In the water, Lance told me to stop by his house because he has something for me.
Isaiah Moniz has been ripping Bowls these past mornings. I’m so proud to see this him surfing so good.
This afternoon, we went to surf a spot where I first learned how to surf. It doesn’t get any more beautiful than this. Just Tokura-san, Deco-san, and I having the whole ocean to ourselves.
Going to and coming home from surfing, I pass by Lance’s house because it’s on my way home. Today was my lucky day!
These were the last 2 mangos of the season on Lance’s tree so I’m honored to receive it from such a gentlemen. So sweet!
