good monday morning. 6:30am. the buoy picked up over night but so did the north winds. the waves look around 2′ right now at pipe but should be a lot bigger by the end of the day. and the winds are picking up right now too so the conditions aren’t going to be that great on the north shore. i just seen a perfect knee/waist high set at bowls with perfect conditions. looking great for diving on the south shore. ummmm…… going to pick up little tssc/dove/spice ripper shun murakami from the airport right now. i can’t wait to see that kid. have a nice day….
oh my gosh!!! i was a hard core football fan since intermediate school. since then, pittsburgh steelers was my team. i remember the rivalry against dallas cowboys back then. there would be no way i would miss a super bowl game since then… well, that’s until i started surfing the north shore. when the super bowl games on every year, the lineups on the north shore are empty. and i would be out there every year surfing with my japanese friends, while the rest of hawaii would be glued to the tv with beers flowing… this year, the waves were flat so i stayed in town yesterday to watch the game at home. i’d figure i’d take a nap, watch the game, take a nap, and watch it till the end. well, i had a hard time taking a nap because my neighbors were going crazy. it was so loud in my valley and when ever somebody scored, everybody would be screaming. i even heard some gunshots…. anyway, this super bowl game turned out to be on of the most exciting games i seen!!! my team was down but they didn’t give up. and freakin won it in the end…. pittsburgh steelers are the champions and i feel like i’m in intermediate school again…. remember the steel curtain???? ahhright…….
DEFENSE!!! THAT’S BEEN THE KEY TO VICTORY….
