Words of Wisdom

79

Just about a year ago, I almost got rid of my Canon camera gear.  I thought the iPhone was good enough.  Thank goodness I didn’t because now I feel like using it again.  

Having a dream session and remembering it is one thing.  But having a dream session and documenting it is another.  We like to document things because you can go back anytime and relive it.  Not too many times will you be able to enjoy a Mentawai like boat trip right here in Hawaii.  We travel around the world and pay thousands of dollars for sessions like this.  Not this time…

So stoked to be surfing with the surfer who inspired me to keep on surfing.  If it wasn’t for Tokura-san, I would have been a salaryman in Japan as intended.  I remember him telling me back in 1992 that I’m a surfer so keep on surfing.  Ever since that day, I kept on surfing.  So yes, I am very grateful for the words of wisdom.

A smile can tell it all.  Deco-san got so many good waves that all she could do was smile from start to finish.  This is what surfing is all about.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide