Today was the kind of day surfers take a break. Rainy, windy, and really big. BUT for these surfers, there is no break. They came here to surf so that’s what we did.
In the whole ocean, it was just us 3. Nobody in the parking lot, beach, or ocean. We were like 3 little kids enjoying Disneyland all to ourselves.
Tokukura-san kept on paddling out to the outside and riding wave after wave. It was like Mother Nature was providing 100 waves an hour and we could choose which ever we wanted.
I was super proud of Namikoshi-san today. Today was the hardest conditions to surf, but he had his best performance. He rode the waves for so long as it kept on going and going.
Tokukura-san is very active. He came here to surf, surf, surf, and do the triathlon. 4 straight days of workouts in Hawaii.
Good job Namikoshi-san! Hope you boys are ready for Boot Camp Day 2 tomorrow.
