Had a great time surfing with the boys. The waves were very hard but the great thing is we had it for ourselves for 3 days!
Namikoshi-san improved each day. Riding more waves and paddling a lot stronger.
Tokukura-san rode some really glassy waves all the way from the outside. I can’t believe he’s going to enter the Honolulu Triathlon tomorrow. This man has lots of energy. Ganbatte kudasai!
I have fun riding along the side taking photos like this. I’m also yelling very loud too. Haha.
And these bottom turn photos are cool too. Look how smooth the waves were this morning.
Thank you again Neal Miyake for sending me a bunch of photos from that last swell. This size and conditions are the best for Bowls. I’m looking down the wave thinking how fun it’s going to be.
And this is fun! Surfing has become my passion once again. All I think about is surfing, surfing, and surfing!
There has been a lot of crime on the North Shore. A big red sign posted “DO NOT LEAVE VALUABLES IN CAR. DON’T BE A VICTIM!” No days, they will break your window just to steal a quarter. Sad…
