Surfed Bowls early this morning and caught a few good waves. Today was the biggest day of the swell which was not expected, but nobody was complaining. Good to see my nephew Joshua out ripping and getting barreled. Round 2 went for a quick boat trip to the East side. It was so beautiful!
And of course, nobody was out. You can choose any wave you want and ride it as long as you want. Then repeat and repeat. 
There was this big wood with a sign floating in and out of the lineup. If you hit this, your surfboard will lose. And your body too. Abunai!
But when you’re with experienced surfers, they see everything in the ocean and know where everything is. If you surf and hit this, it’s pretty much your own fault. 
Tokura-san is very experienced in surfing secret spots. He’s been doing this for 59 years. Nice late takeoff! 
Deco-san always wins with the most waves ridden in a session. Surfing and smiling the whole way…
