Malcom was on the beach early this morning so we paddled out together. I took my time and before I even close to getting out, I saw him riding a set already. And of course, smiling all the way. 
Carter pushing his shortboard to the limit. Protected by a Dove Wetsuit long sleeve rashguard. Good equipment, smart man.
This girl has been surfing for a little over 4 years now. Started off on a longboard and now riding a 6’0 and surfing with style and flow. 
Did you see the clouds this morning? OMG, it was amazing. So was Deco-san’s surfing! 
Tokura-san and I were supposed to go on a surf trip to Taiwan last month. But because of the earthquake, we cancelled and now we’re on a surf trip in Hawaii. Surfing everyday and enjoying the slow life. Everything happens for a reason. 
I’ll never forget the day 32 years ago when I told Tokura-san in Japan, “I’m going to become a salaryman in Tokyo.” His reply was “No you’re not. You’re a surfer.” He was absolutely right! The greatest advice of a lifetime.
