The waves were good this morning if you could be patient. And since we were patient, the waves were good!
Purple is the magic board color today. Smooth and easy to ride.
I think my new color is purple because I like the way it flows with the clear ocean.
When people say that the waves are too small to surf, it’s probably because they’re using the wrong board. It’s never too small if you have magic boards.
Everyday I observe the lineup. Localism vs. Tourism. If you know the rules, it will be very peaceful. If you don’t, it will be war. A war where locals always win everywhere in the world.
Deco-san caught some really nice waves today. This one I was riding right behind her watching the perfect ride.
Smooth bottom turn.
Another happy purple magic surfer. Flowing with the 6’0 and keeping warm with the 2mm Dove long john. The perfect combination for today.
Tokura-san with a nice wave at Bowls rights. Classic forever…
