Wow, nobody was expecting the swell to grow this fast again. Today was the biggest day of the year so far. I paddled out and caught 5 perfect waves, then got beaten down by 20 waves. So much energy for this brand new swell. So far, this year has been a wonderful summer if you’re a South shore big wave surfer! 
After a session like this, I like sitting on the beach and watching the action. You can see so many things happening. There were boats trying to get out of the channel. Today was a day not to take out your boat. 
This is a 25′ boat that is about 25′ in height too. So you can imagine how big those waves are.
A very close call. Not worth the risk.
On days like this, everyone has a story. A story of a lifetime.
Good to see Isaiah Moniz getting big barrels out there. And good to see him with a red magic board!
