I pulled up to the parking lot early this morning and something was strange? It’s Saturday but there are no cars??? I think the contest that started today scared all the locals away, but not this one. I waxed up my board and paddled out as fast as I could. I knew I would score!
There were only a couple kids at the peak. But sorry kids, Uncles have priority. I was the only local out for 30 minutes and that’s all I needed to get 3 perfect lefts and 2 perfect rights.
This turtle swims by the lineup every morning at the same time.
It seems like everyday of this swell is getting more and more satisfying. There we so many waves coming in. I actually let a couple kids go on sets and they would paddle back out and say “thanks uncle.” Pretty cool to see kids being respectful.
This girl Pua DeSoto has an amazing presence. When she reaches the lineup, you can feel her aura. Then when she surfs, you can see the power and grace. Surfing doesn’t get any more beautiful than this.
Then the kids invaded the lineup. It was time for me to go in but this morning was my favorite morning of this everlasting south swell.
Paddling in as the sun rises and driving home with the sunrise shining off my sunburnt face.
Round 2 was this evening at Bowls. High tide and so good! Sugiura-san came off an airline and we went straight to the ocean. It’s his very first time to Hawaii so I’m sure he was amazed on how clear the water was, and how warm the weather was too. It was paradise today!
We surfed into the sunset. Now I’m totally sunburnt and need to cool down. Good night and see you early in the morning!
