OUR Happy Place

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I have this photo on my refrigerator.  I am forever grateful for the person who took it.  I was out one late evening in Waikiki teaching my little Princess how to surf.  She must have been 5 years old at the time so I probably promised her ice cream if she went surfing with me.  We caught waves together, we were laughing, we were the 2 happiest people in the ocean.  I didn’t have my camera that day so it was just our moment to remember.  The next day, my sisters friend called me and told me to come pick up some photos.  When I saw this for the first time, I actually teared up.  Just by looking at this photo, I can relive that moment over and over.   A precious moment where the ocean gave this little girl a wave, and she rode it so gracefully.  “The Beach is OUR Happy Place!”

Today I decided to open every one of my surfboard bags and see what’s inside it.  I thought I should get rid of 10 or so but after I finished checking them all, I got rid of none.  I have 84 surfboards that mean the world to me.  Keeping them for life…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide