Big Wave Progression

25

Mid-morning at Rockpiles was amazing.  Lots of big waves so you have to choose the right ones.  

Last week was big and I couldn’t get any photos.  BUT, today was big and I got some nice photos of this new big wave surfer.  

It’s pretty cool how confident surfing big waves can do to a man.  He was ripping all morning.  Now he’s back on an airplane dreaming about this mornings magical session.  

This afternoon the waves were going off at Bowls.  The tide was super high so the rights were really good and long.  

Guess who’s back?  Yes, Seira-chan is back and surfing better than ever!  She was charging this evening.

I can tell that Seira-chan was practicing in Japan because from her first wave, she was ripping.  Good flow and good style like always.  I get really happy seeing progression like this!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide