Early morning at Bowls was so good again. The swell dropped a little but the shape was as good as it gets. There were a lot of empty barrels. I with I was a goofy footer!
Komatsubara-san and I surfed together 9 years ago. We’re both getting older, but enjoying the ocean a lot more now.
Morning light with a morning right. So nice!
Seira-chan is a good wave hunter. She managed to catch so many good waves this morning.
And surfing it really well.
Round 2 this afternoon at Bowls. Totally different vibe than the morning crowd. A lot more aggressive, a lot more talent, and a lot more arguments.
After scoring yesterday at Bowls, we knew today would be even better. Higher tide so the rights were perfect!
Seira-chan flying down this wave.
Look how beautiful the rights were. Some of them were better than the lefts. I saw Seira-chan ride some from Bowls all the way to Rockpiles.
A very talented young woman. She knows how to catch the good waves, and she knows how to ride them properly. Good girl!
We surfed 6 hours today. Sunburnt and surfed out. It’s only 6pm and I’m going to bed. Goodnight or good evening. Goodnight for me.
