Hawaii Surf League Day 1

70

In order to become a well rounded surfer, you have to be able to ride anything.  This morning, Seira-chan rode one of Seth Moniz’s high performance board which is only 24 liters.  It’s much more challenging to catch waves, but once you’re up, it surfs really well.

It’s pretty impressive to be able to ride this board.  I tried it and couldn’t even paddle it.  

Seira-chan’s been averaging 3 turns per wave.  Total control from start to finish.  That’s what the judges want to see.

Then we started having heats.  In Japan, the heats are 13 minutes so that’s what we practiced.  For that short amount of time, you can’t make any mistakes.  The girls were hassling each other and being very competitive.  It was pretty cool to judge.

I was trying to explain strategy from a judges perspective.  It’s the judges that will make or break you.  

The girls learned today that surfboard selection is very important.  Tomorrow we’ll be riding different boards and having more heats.  I’m hoping for good choice of equipment and good strategy.  

Yes, there is no where else in the would I’d rather be right now.  I’m falling in love with Hawaii more and more as I get older and wiser.  Look at this!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide