Summer Solstice 2024

92

Today is summer solstice so that means it’s the longest day of the year.  Each day after today will be shorter and shorter.  I can’t wait until it gets dark at 6pm again because it’s hard to sleep when the sun is shining in my window.

This morning was super fun.  The girls paddled out to their own little wave and had 6 heats.  Gaining more knowledge heat after heat.  We’re getting Seira-chan ready for her big contest that’s coming up.

Since the contest in Japan could possibly be about this size, we practiced on short boards and worked on technique.  I was the judge sitting in the channel watching the girls compete for waves.

While Seira-chan was waiting for a wave, a shark swam to the left of her.  We both saw the fin come out of the water which was pretty cool.  Then she saw about 7 turtles today too.  Dolphins yesterday, and monk seals the day before.  Luck girl.

When we’re having heats, the girls are very serious.  You have to put your friendship aside and be wanting to win.  If you can’t do that, you shouldn’t be surfing contests.

Smooth style like this will impress any judge.

Good surfing today girls.  I forgot we went for Round 2 but too sunburnt for that.  Photos of that coming tomorrow.  Goodnight.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide