good evening. the waves were terrible out here today. windy, rainy, and freakin cold. nobody wanted to surf, except shun. when i picked him up, i asked him where he wanted to surf. he said “big wave”. so we paddled out to waimea bay. outside was 10′ so we surfed the inside called “pinballs”. it was solid 6′ with some bigger sets and the boys were charging. shun on his 5’2, joshua on his 5’6, and seth on his 4’11 gun. i was sitting in the channel watching them and i was cracking up. when ever a huge set on the outside came, the kids would paddle their fastest to the channel. i know that feeling because i use to do the same thing. anyway, we came in and the river broke this morning forming a nice sandbar in the shorebreak. the kids were charging and getting barreled!! what a score for a shitty day of surf around the island. waimea bay was the spot for sure today…
while we were waiting for the rain to stop, the kids were playing in the back yard of the go-naminori house…
shun and seth climbed up the tree house like little monkeys…
i wanted to thank photographer paul gordinho for sending me these photos of ronnie burns today. this is the man i was talking about in my morning blog. the man that was well respected on the north shore of hawaii. the man that rode pipeline as deep, or deeper than anybody else has…
tom carrol was known for one of the first guys to do turns out at pipeline. the only reason was because tom did it in a pipe masters in front of the media. what a lot of people don’t know is that ronnie burns was the first to do turns like this out at pipe. i’ve seen it with my own eyes…. thanks again gordinho for the priceless shots….
**if any of you out there have photos worth posting, please send it to me. photos speak a thousand words and i’ll give my 20 or so… thanks… oh, send it to KIRBY@GO-NAMINORI.COM…..
