No Locals Today

15

I’ve never seen so many box jellyfish before.  That small sand patch in front of Bowls had 35 this morning, and I heard Waikiki had hundreds.  Not even the locals wanted to surf today.  

But if you surfed in Japan before, jellyfish is part of surfing life there.  Surfers don’t care.  So I guess you can say we were very lucky that the jellyfish prevented everyone from paddling out because it was only us.  

I told Shimizu-san that there were lots of jellyfish and he looked at me like he didn’t care.  He just wanted to surf!  

So just us at the peak at Bowls this morning catching every set that came in.  Waves are epic when nobody is out.  That’s a surfers dream session.

Rights were good too.  This all 1mm Dove Wetsuit is the best for jellyfish days.  

We focused on the lefts at first because Bowls is famous for the lefts.  

Good long rides and perfectly surfed.  Learning new things everyday.

Shizume-san surfs in Shikoku where it’s never uncrowded like this.  I kept on telling him to go, go, and go.  

Great surfing on these perfect waves!  Thanks you guys for a wonderful morning session.

Round 2 we surfed Diamond Head.  Super fun too!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide