The Waikiki Experience

19

After surfing Bowls yesterday, we went to Diamond Head in the afternoon.  

A much more challenging wave than Bowls but surfing here will make you a better rounded surfer.  If you can surf here, you can surf anywhere.

I took 20 video clips of every wave the girls rode.  They did great!  I was commentating just like how Coach Ben Aipa use to.  Every time I do this, I can feel Ben’s presence.  

Came home and turned on the sauna.  I spent 30 minutes and came out dripping with sweat.  Followed by a cold shower.  Felt brand new after that.

Okinawan soba is my favorite!  Perfect for lunch.

If you like to people watch, Waikiki is the best place to do that.  

We paddled out and surfed for the experience.  It was pretty crazy.

We had a great experience surfing with that dangerous crowd.  Surfers crashing against each other on every wave.  Once a year is good for me.  If you want to surf in Waikiki, I recommend wearing a helmet.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide