Today’s Muscle Memory

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This morning was pretty crowded for how little waves came.  You had to wait your turn but when it came, it was super fun.  

It’s the small days like this when big accidents happen.  I was in a very dangerous situation this morning and thank goodness nobody got hurt.  Just 2 boards being banged up instead of 2 bodies.  It could have been a lot worst.

Went back for Round 2 this afternoon.  More waves and a lot more rides.  Hashimoto-san looking sharp on his shortboard.

Nakahodo-san turning hard off the top.  Nice turn and nice spray!

Muscle memory is important.  When you can consistently take off on the right part of the wave, everything after will be smooth and easy.  Once this becomes muscle memory, surfing will get a lot better and you will go home a lot happier.  Anyway a big south swell is on the way so everybody be ready to GO-Naminori!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide