Imagine it being the biggest day of the year. The surf report is 15′ faces that will be peaking this morning. I have my 2 brave surfers with me and decided to take them out to a spot neither of them have surfed before. It is pitch dark and we’re walking on the reef getting ready to paddle out. Out to where? They had no idea.
We get out and it gets very interesting. I wasn’t expecting this so I’m sure they weren’t either. The waves were giant! Solid 8′ Hawaiian scale so almost triple overhead. I rode the wave previous to this one and when I pulled out, I saw the next one behind. The Energizer Bunny throws her board as she barely made it over this wave. Right to the inside of her was Nakahodo-san about to take the full force of the wave as it broke right in front of him. I went under this wave and when I came up, I saw Nakahodo-san’s surfboard sticking up straight in the air. That means he was at least 6′ deep underwater fighting for his life. It was only after he surfaced I started laughing. Haha.
There was only 1 other surfer out and she had the biggest board. This was her second wave and the only reason I took out my camera was because her first wave was twice as big. She was stoked when I sent her this photo after we got in. This is like a historic day surfing the Third Reef Waikiki. I’ve never seen it barreling this big in my life out there. And nobody was out!!!
Then this afternoon it was my private time. Usually I take a nap but not when Big Right’s is calling me. I surfed with my long time friend Jun Jo and took turns in some nice barrels. A very long but thankful day that nobody got hurt and everyone when home safe. I’m still super excited of this historic day on the South Shore!
