11’0 to 5’10

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We were surprised to see the swell still hanging around this morning.  It was much bigger than expected but that’s great news!  Nakagami-san going backside.

Yes, another beautiful morning.  Less wind so glassy conditions.

The Energizer Bunny keeps on going, going, and going.  She will never turn down a surf session.  

From starting off on a 11’0 longboard and standing up for the very first time of her life, now she’s comfortable on a 6’1 shortboard and almost to the goal of a 5’10.  It’s been a long process but her goal is coming really soon.

The trash in the Ala Wai Boat Harbor is getting out of control.  20 years ago there use to be only sticks and leaves.  

Now there’s full bags of rubbish!  That’s pretty disgusting!  And also very sad to see this.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide