Tiny Thursday

98

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a smaller day than this in the summer.  The waves looked totally flat when we got there but all the girls need was a little wave to get their adrenaline going.

There were more than enough waves.  The girls must have caught a total of 50 waves as my battery in my camera ran out.  They practically caught every wave that broke this morning.  Today was all about hunting for waves and they succeeded.

Just a few years ago, if these 2 girls rode the same wave, they would have crashed into each other.  Now, they know how to share, flow, and enjoy.  Nice to see them enjoying the ride.

Local boys Eddie and Kawika paddled out for some Vitamin Sea.

Round 2 was with Minabe-san.  We surfed Rockpiles because that looked like the best spot.

The waves were actually good, but very shallow.  Look at the reef below!

Minabe-san caught so many waves and surfed it very well.  We had that whole stop to ourselves for over an hour!  Scored!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide