Winter Greatness

103

This morning felt like winter!  It was dark, cold, and small.  I paddled out with my 1mm but I was still freezing cold.  

So cool to see the rain pass by and hoping for a rainbow.

The sun came out for a minute and it felt so good.  Then it got cloudy and cold again.  

Rain and sun equals a rainbow.  Well, a dark rainbow.

The girls paddled out and caught everything again.  I took video of all their waves which totaled 51 clips.  Yes, they caught every wave that broke.

They practiced hunting for waves, they practiced walking the board, and they practiced calmness.  It was so cool to see.

Then I went to visit my Grand-nephew Honouliwai.  This kid can surf, he can skate, he can ride the bike, and he can do so many things normal 3 year old kids can’t.  He was showing me his surfboard his Mommy gave to him.  This kid is heading for GREATNESS!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide