It was a beautiful morning! Super sunny Sunday! Trying out a Kelia Moniz longboard and feeling what the 2X World Champion rides. 
High performance longboard made for high performance riding. 
The girls ripping! Walking on water all morning long. After this, I put my camera away once I saw Allen swim out. 
Pretty cool because these girls have 2 photographers. I’m shooting while surfing, and Allen is swimming while shooting. The only waves I’m riding is the ones they are missing. So yes, I’m riding the leftovers. 
You can learn a lot by looking at your photo because this is real. Some people get shocked when they see their photos, but this is the best way to learn. So yes, go get yourself a personal photographer if you want to surf cooler. 
And if you have a good photographer, he will capture moments you don’t even know are happening behind you. Nice shot Allen! 
These are the photos I like the best. It’s all about the ambiance.
Nobody on this island is riding more waves than these girls. They’re averaging 30 waves each per session. The funny thing is if I don’t tell them it’s time go in, the will stay out forever.
