Early morning Bowls was pretty calm. The new swell isn’t here yet but it’s coming very soon.
Our private photographer Allen was out again and sent me this sequence.
Riding a 6’4 twin fin that is super fast and easy to turn.
If you caught the right wave, you could do a few turns and be really happy. Right board for the right day.
Half way through our session, we paddled down to another spot. There were only 5 other surfers out but they were all locals. Sorry, no photos here but the girls surfed this wave very well. I was so proud of them because just a year ago, they feared this spot.
I was at the Honolulu Harbor the other day. I saw this dinner cruise boat and had a flashback. OMG, there was a boat named the “Windjammer” back in the 1980’s. My friend asked me if I wanted a midnight job so when the cruise came in, the tourists got off and I got to work. My job was to vacuum and shampoo the carpets all night until the morning hours. I remember it being really dirty and stinky. And I also remember taking long breaks fishing right off that pier. So yes, I use to get paid $5/hour and got to take home fresh fish I caught. Not a bad job for a teenager. Haha.
