
Surfed with Nakagami-san this morning and the waves were so fun! Really clean and glassy conditions. Perfect for rail to rail surfing. 
This was the best surfing I’ve seen out of Nakagami-san. Super confident and comfortable. 
The conditions were as good as it gets. 
The girls jumped on a 7’6 I borrowed from a friend because we are training for big waves. You will need a board like this if you want to succeed at double overhead or triple overhead waves. 
Practicing timing, turning, and keeping calm. 
Allen came out and took some photos. Here I am hanging off the top of the wave trying to get the perfect photo.
And here is that photo. So cool watching the girls connect to such a big board. Now we just need some big waves!


